rated about 〃our insular cuisine；〃 demanding its reform on Continental models； and they have found too many like unto themselves who were ready to listen； the result will be； before long； that our excellence will be forgotten； and paltry methods be universally introduced； together with the indifferent viands to which they are suited。 Yet； if any generality at all be true； it is a plain fact that English diet and English virtue……in the largest sense of the word……are inseparably bound together。
Our supremacy in this matter of the table came with little taking of thought； what we should now do is to reflect upon the things which used to be instinctive； perceive the reasons of our excellence； and set to work to re…establish it。 Of course the vilest cooking in the kingdom is found in London； is it not with the exorbitant growth of London that many an ill has spread over the land？ London is the antithesis of the domestic ideal； a social reformer would not even glance in that direction； but would turn all his zeal upon small towns and country districts； where blight may perhaps be arrested； and whence； some day； a reconstituted national life may act upon the great centre of corruption。 I had far rather see England covered with schools of cookery than with schools of the ordinary kind； the issue would be infinitely more hopeful。 Little girls should be taught cooking and baking more assiduously than they are taught to read。 But with ever in view the great English principle……that food is only cooked aright when it yields the utmost of its native and characteristic savour。 Let sauces be utterly forbidden……save the natural sauce made of gravy。 In the same way with sweets； keep in view the insurpassable English ideals of baked tarts （or pies； if so you call them）； and boiled